| Do-It-Yourself
Intake Painting
"How-To" by
Myke85GT
(Mike)
This is one of the most inexpensive
modifications that
you can do to your motor.
(note:
These pictures were taken of a Trickflow intake, your application may vary
slightly)
TO PAINT, OR
NOT TO PAINT?
The first question you
may be asking yourself it why would I want to paint a new intake or slightly new
intake. Well there are two trains of thought on this.
First: Its
new why bother.
Sure
its new, but given daily road grime and greasy hands
while your working on your engine it will inevitably
look like crap in a year or less. Surly, you don't want
to be at a show or in line at the strip and trying to
explain to the judge why you motor looks like crap.
Second: How
can I protect my intake and keep it looking good?
So you picked up that new or slightly used intake
but.... it looks terrible because it been laying in the
shop for the last six months waiting to be installed.
Cleaning and painting will protect it and keep it
looking great for a long time.
ITEMS NEED TO
COMPLETE THIS TASK
Dish soap and warm water
(if it is really dirty) Purple Power
Painters tape
Sandpaper 80, 120, 320,
500, then 100 grit
Lucas Metal Polish
Tack rags
Wax and Grease remover
Red or Grey Scotchbrite
pads
Sand able Primer
High Temp Paint (color of
your choice)
High Temp Clear coat (if
you want to go this far)
STEP
ONE: "PREP"
PREP is the key to making in it
look good and having last. Start by washing it with dish soap and warm water.
Dish soap is good for getting grease/oil off. Now if its caked with oil and
dirt, would be good to start off with Purple Power, to get big stuff off, then
wash with dish soap.
STEP TWO:
SAND AND TAPE
I sanded
the Trick Flow word on top with 80, 120, 320, 500, then 100 grit to get them to
a semi polished looked. Then polished them with a metal polish, I used Lucas
metal polish. Wiped it with some wax/grease remover and taped them up and used a
razor to trim access off. Also use tape on all the areas you don't want painted,
like the areas at base that were semi polished. Once everything is taped, you
need to prep surface by either sanding it with 400-600 grit paper, or can use
either Red or Grey Scotchbrite. If the item your are working has powder coating,
or is already painted, some sanding will be required. Sand until with a 80-180
grit until all loose paint/coating is off, and edges feathered.
STEP
THREE: DEWAX AND DEGREASE
After
the surface is prepped, that's when you wipe it with tack rag, them wipe it with
wax/grease remover. Try not to touch surface after wiped with the wax/grease
remover, because you skin leaves oil.
STEP
FOUR: PRIMING TIME
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!
Coat your project in a
light coat of primer. Prime with a good sand able
primer, sand with 400-600 grit paper, wipe clean and
paint... When priming/painting better to apply in light
multiple coats than one heavy coat. Be sure to allow
adequate drying time between coats. In between coats,
wipe project off with tack rag, to get any dust and
loose primer that didn't stick.
STEP
FIVE: PAINTING TIME
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!
Coat your project in a light coats of paint. When
painting better to apply in light multiple coats than
one heavy coat. Be sure to allow adequate drying time
between coats. In between coats, wipe project off with
tack rag, to get any dust and loose paint that didn't
stick. Once it is dry and you satisfied with the finish
you can bolt it up or you can proceed to the next step
STEP
SIX: CLEAR COAT TIME
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!
Coat your project in a couple light coats of clear coat.
Again when painting better to apply in light multiple
coats than one heavy coat. Be sure to allow adequate
drying time between coats. In between coats, wipe
project off with tack rag, to get any dust and loose
paint that didn't stick. now your ready to bolt it up
and show it off.
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Yes, this has
been painted it is not raw Aluminum
TAKE YOUR TIME!!!!!
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